Briouates with Kefta (Moroccan Meat Cigars)

Begin by preparing the filling, which must be completely cooled before filling the pastries. Heat two tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet or pan over medium heat. Add one large finely chopped or grated onion and sauté for five to six minutes until very soft and translucent. Add four to five minced garlic cloves and cook one minute until fragrant. Add one pound of ground meat (beef or beef-lamb mixture), breaking it up with a wooden spoon. Cook, stirring frequently and breaking up any clumps, until the meat is browned and no longer pink, about eight to ten minutes. As the meat cooks, add your spice blend: one to two teaspoons ground cumin, one teaspoon ground coriander, one teaspoon paprika, half a teaspoon ground cinnamon, half a teaspoon ground ginger, one teaspoon salt, and black pepper to taste. Stir well to distribute spices evenly.

Once the meat is browned and spiced, add half a cup each of finely chopped fresh cilantro and parsley. Stir well. Continue cooking over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until all the liquid released by the meat and onions has evaporated and the mixture is quite dry - this takes about fifteen to twenty minutes. The filling should be crumbly and concentrated, not wet or saucy. This step is crucial because wet filling will make the briouates soggy and cause them to burst during frying. When the filling is dry and aromatic, remove from heat. Taste and adjust seasoning - the filling should be boldly flavored since it will be enclosed in pastry. Let cool for five minutes, then stir in one or two beaten eggs to bind the mixture. Mix thoroughly. Transfer to a bowl and let cool completely to room temperature before using - you can refrigerate to speed this up.

While the filling cools, prepare your wrapping station. Take your package of spring roll wrappers out of the refrigerator. You'll need: the wrappers kept under a damp (not wet) kitchen towel to prevent drying, the cooled filling in a bowl with a spoon, one egg beaten in a small bowl (for sealing), a small pastry brush or your finger for applying egg wash, a clean work surface, and a large plate or tray to hold finished briouates. If using square spring roll wrappers and making triangular briouates, cut each wrapper in half to create rectangles. If making cigar shapes, keep wrappers whole. Have everything within reach before you start folding.

To make triangular briouates: Take one wrapper rectangle (or half-sheet) and place it on your work surface with the short end toward you. Place one to one and a half tablespoons of filling at the bottom center of the wrapper, shaping it into a thin horizontal log. Brush egg wash along all the edges of the wrapper. Fold the bottom edge up over the filling, then fold in the left and right sides to enclose the filling. Now begin folding upward in triangles - fold the bottom right corner diagonally up to the left edge, creating a triangle, then fold this triangle straight up, then fold diagonally again to the right, continuing this triangle-folding pattern like folding a flag until you reach the top. Brush the final flap with egg wash and press to seal completely. The briouate should be a neat, compact triangle. To make cigar shapes: Place filling in a thin line along one edge of the wrapper, fold in the sides, brush edges with egg wash, and roll tightly into a cigar shape, sealing the end. Place finished briouates on your tray, covered with a dry towel.

Pour vegetable oil into a deep, heavy pot or deep fryer to a depth of two to three inches. Heat oil over medium-high heat to 350-375°F (175-190°C) - use a thermometer for accuracy, or test by dropping a small piece of wrapper into the oil - it should sizzle immediately and rise to the surface. Working in batches of four to six briouates at a time (don't crowd the pot), carefully lower the briouates into the hot oil using a slotted spoon or spider. Fry, turning occasionally with tongs or a slotted spoon, until golden brown and crispy all over, about three to four minutes total. The briouates should be evenly golden, not pale or dark brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Let the oil return to temperature between batches. Continue frying all briouates.

Arrange the hot, crispy briouates on a serving platter lined with paper towels to absorb any excess oil, then transfer to a clean serving plate. Serve immediately while hot and crispy. Garnish the platter with fresh parsley or cilantro sprigs and lemon wedges if desired. Briouates are typically served as they are, without sauce, but some people enjoy them with harissa paste on the side for dipping, or with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. During Ramadan, serve as part of the iftar spread alongside harira soup, dates, and Moroccan sweets. For parties, arrange on elegant platters as passed appetizers.